I have just returned (January 6th) from Guatemala. Here are some travel notes I wrote:
The war in Chiapas (Mexico) is going to cause problems for people who want to travel off the beaten track in Peten. The Guatemalan military is increasing its activity along the border and is paranoid about gringos given the Mexican government's assertion that "foreigners" are involved in the revolt. When I flew into Flores, there was so much military activity, it looked like the opening scene from the Oliver Stone film, Platoon.
Beware of Tikal Jets. I encountered many people who had complaints...overbooking, overselling and selling tickets on flights that simply didn't exist.
In Flores, Hotel Yum Kax is a perfectly good place to stay. Doubles with ceiling fan run $19 per night. Air conditioning is about $4 more but not worth the noise. No hot water but in the jungle, who needs it. The hotel has a swimming pool which is nice and the staff are very eager to please.
At the airport, I was quoted 100 Quetzals for the trip to Tikal. At Yum Kax it was 30. The hotel ran vans at 4 am (for the cosmic folks who want to see the sunrise) and at 7 am (for the more laid back types.)
For those who don't understand what happens to the human body when it is very hot and humid, let me explain: you become dehydrated. If you go to Tikal, bring bottled water with you. I was told of a German tourist who became so seriously dehydrated that a med-evac to Guatemala City was necessary. Once there, his passport was confiscated and a bill for $12 000 was presented for the helicopter ride.
In Panajachel, I stayed at the Cacique Inn. Adela Schuman (a wonderful woman whose age I won't hazard a guess at) runs the wonderful hotel. $50 per night for a double. El Dragon is a superb restaurant for dinner (22 to 27/Q) and the Deli has great cappucino and eggs benidict (17/Q).
In Guatemala City, Hotel Excell (9a Ave & 15 Calle in Zone 1) is a great bargin at 95/Q per night. They have a car park that is secure. Rooms are large, they include a TV -- but no cable -- and have ample hot water from the little heaters on the end of the pipe. Restaurant Gran Central (across the street from the Excell) serves excellant Peruvian food at very low prices and also is very international at night.
When I was there (December 18th to January 5th) the Quetzal averaged 5.78 per dollar at the bank, and about 5.85 on the street.
One final note: Guatemala now seems to be more of a drug market than a transit point. I received more offers on the street to purchase marijuanna from Belize than ever before. Rumor has it that the product is of high quality but the reality is that Guatemalan jails are are not worth the hassle.
